Washingtonpost.com: Live Online
Ask Tom
Hosted by Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Food Critic
Wednesday, Jan. 2, 2002; 11 a.m. EST
In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service?
Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's new food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. EST to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web.
The transcript follows.
Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.
washingtonpost.com: Tom should be with us momentarily. Stay tuned.
Lorton, Va.: Went to Sorak Gardens this weekend, and I'd have to say it was some of the best Korean BBQ I've had anywhere. Just thought I'd pass along thanks for the review that got me there, and also thought I'd pass on that the service we got was top notch, so perhaps the management has taken your review to heart. We were seated right away, the server gave us just enough time to decide on our order, and they even refilled the condiment dishes (something I've not seen done at other Korean restaurants).
A few more meals like that, and Korean might just catch up with Chinese food in my list of preferences.
Tom Sietsema: Thanks for your feedback. Judging from what others have told me since the review, the service has greatly improved. I’m pleased to hear that, because the cooking at Sorak Garden definitely is “worth the trip,” as the Michelin guide says.
Welcome back, everyone. Here’s hoping you enjoyed a safe and delicious New Year’s Eve.
Indian Head, Md.: What is a good, cheap, unassuming restaurant in the Northern Virginia area? The kind where blue jeans are the norm? (And serve something other than burgers)
Tom Sietsema: A few of the many places that come to mind include Hard Times Caf, the chili purveyor with multiple locations; Kabob Palace (Middle Eastern) in Arlington; Huong Que (Vietnamese) in Falls Church; A & J (Chinese dim sum) in Annandale; Bombay Tandoor in Vienna; Yoko (sushi) in Oakton; and Sakoontra (Thai) in Fairfax. I’ve seen jeans – and dined well, for not much money – at all of them.
Washington, D.C.: Tom,
There used to be a Post column on food "grubby but good"... usually inexpensive restaurants that were long on good food and short on good decor. Any suggestions on places that you wouldn't take your mother but would go to chow down?
Tom Sietsema: "Crummy But Good" is no longer published in the Wednesday Food section (and hasn’t appeared there in some time).
Alexandria, Va.: Dear Tom,
As an employee of professional kitchens I would like to comment on the widely held opinion that "Monday is a bad night to eat out because it is the chef's night off." First of all, in most restaurants with big-name or "celebrity" chefs, it is quite rare that the chef is actually cooking, most likely he is expediting and organizing the orders that are coming in with the food that is going out. The actual cooking is probably being executed by a very competent chef de cuisine or sous chef(s) and a small army of fast moving cooks. I do not honestly think that the chef being there, or not, really makes a heck of a difference in the quality of your food. Second, Monday night (and most nights early in the week) are much less crowded than the rest of the week, and in my experience the busier the restaurant is, the lower the quality of your food. Believe me, when the tickets come roaring in on a Saturday night, you can not expect each plate to be scrutinized like it were the cover shot for a local magazine that does top 100 lists (to be left nameless). This is not to say that you will receive poor food on a busy night, but just give Monday night a chance,and have some confidence in the rest of the crew that really run the kitchen in a higher-end restaurant.
Tom Sietsema: You are preaching to the choir there. I actually prefer the quiet of a Monday night to the blast of a busy Saturday myself.
Thanks for your detailed reminder (though a few restaurants might take issue with your saying that a busy kitchen turns out lower quality cooking. It might not be ready for a close-up, but I bet the ingredients are no less prime.)
Washington, D.C.: I dine out frequently and am very upset that that so many restaurants routinely give the wine list to the man. My husband knows NOTHING about wine! Why don't they just give him my menu, too, so he can choose what I eat?
This has happened at so many places, Butterfield 9 twice. I know a lot of women who feel the same way. Here's hoping that servers and/or managers get the hint.
Tom Sietsema: Handing the wine list to a man, just because he’s a man, at a table occupied by guests of both sexes is a big mistake. I mean, what year is this? Better for the maitre d’ to ask who the host is, or who would like to review the list.
Washington, D.C.: A friend and I with adventurous tastes and a small budget are going to see "Lord of the Rings" at the Uptown tonight, and need a good place to get dinner in Cleveland Park beforehand. Do you have any quick-and-cheap gems we should try?
Tom Sietsema: Spices, right across the street, offers a fine pan-Asian menu and tempting prices to boot.
Washington, D.C.: The day after Christmas, my husband and I rolled into Galileo after spending 13 hours on the road. We were not appropriately dressed (jeans) but in dire need of really good food after days of nothing but rest stop meals. The staff was extremely nice, treated us with the same level of respect as the other guests and even stopped to share stories of their road journeys from over the years. This was our first time going to the restaurant and we will most certainly return. Your recommendations couldn't have been more on target.
I have a few questions, though, that you might be able to answer. There is a kitchen in the middle of the restaurant, what is that used for? Is this common in upscale restaurants? Do they offer cooking classes in these spaces? Are there restaurants that have cooking classes? Thanks so much!
Tom Sietsema: The restaurant in the rear of Galileo is known as Laboratoria del Galileo; chef Roberto Donna struts his stuff there, for a privileged few, several nights a week. The fixed-price menu stretches to a dozen different courses and is well worth the effort in securing a table.
It is not that common for upscale restaurants to have two such venues. As for restaurants offering cooking instruction, Equinox (Italian) and Gerard’s Place (French) both occur to me as I type.
Now in the OTHER Washington...: Tom:
I recently relocated from D.C. to Seattle (Thank heaven for washingtonpost.com). I know you worked here awhile, so: Where do I eat?
Tom Sietsema: Funny you should ask. I recently spent a glorious three days in Seattle, checking out the restaurant scene. A few of my new faves include Monsoon (Vietnamese) on Capital Hill and Le Pichet (French, near the famous Pike Place Market on First Ave.)
For the female wine drinker: Is she equally upset when her husband is presented with the bill?
Tom Sietsema: LOL.
VERY funny.
Washington, D.C.: I went to dinner for New Years Eve and the waiter made an inappropriate comment to me (I'm a female and my date had gotten up from the table to use the bathroom). I called him on it immediately and told him that his comment was offensive. He basically gave me a back-handed apology -- "I'm sorry, I didn't realize you would take things so sensitively." I asked for the manager, but it was almost midnight and things got kind of hectic so I never saw the manager. I am still bothered by it. Granted, you are not a female so probably have not been in this situation, but what would you recommend I do now? Call and tell the manager? (By the way, there was no way that the waiter could not have known that this was rude, it was a fixed price meal with 20 percent included so not tipping wasn't an option, and I didn't press the issue more at the time because I didn't want to ruin my New Year by having my date get all upset.)
Tom Sietsema: There are, of course, exceptions to every "rule." Sorry your party was ruined. If I were you, I'd definitely contact the manager and give him (or her) as much detail as you are able.
Exactly what did the server say to you, curious minds want to know?
Silver Spring, Md.: Am I wrong to feel miffed if the head chef declines to explain the ingredients in a menu item? At Makoto Restaurant a week ago, the most expensive item on the menu was "Bento" with no other written explanation. To me "bento" is a lunch box. Sitting opposite the head chef behind the counter, I asked him in English what's in the "bento." He answered that he couldn't say... "too many things."
Tom Sietsema: Sounds like someone needs to go to charm school.
I can’t imagine why a chef wouldn’t reveal the ingredients of a dish on his menu. I’d be put off, too.
20008: Tom, I submitted this a day earlier and may be it got lost. I wonder where do they serve a good ribbolita ? Thanks !
Tom Sietsema: I haven’t encountered a good version lately, sorry to report. (Ribollita, by the way, is a rich, bread-thickened minestrone frequently served in Tuscan restaurants.)
Falls Church, Va.: Hi Tom,
Even in Washington's most expensive restaurants, I often receive meat or fish overcooked according to the order I placed. And the waiter usually agrees and takes back the food.
Should the waiter take back the food of my guest and bring fresh dishes at the same time? Should I expect any token of apology such as a free glass of wine or dessert? If I am unhappy, to whom should I complain and how?
Tom Sietsema: You and I must be eating in the same places, as I frequently encounter the same problem.
While I don’t believe a restaurant is obliged to remake ALL the dishes at the table, provided they are cooked as requested, I do think a glass of wine, a complimentary dessert or some show of apology would go a long way toward rectifying the delay.
As for complaining, I’ve said this before: register your dissatisfaction as soon as you see a problem, with either your server or a manager.
Washington, D.C.: As a longtime Washingtonian, let me first say you are a fine successor to Phyllis Richman. I enjoy your reviews.
Now to my question: My in-laws are coming into town next weekend, and want to go out for simple boiled lobster and other seafood. What do you recommend in the Washington metropolitan area? Any views about the mysterious crab house on Wisconsin Avenue just north of Tenley Circle? What about Crisfields in Bethesda (I think)?
Tom Sietsema: Thanks for the kind words.
Lobster? I’d try Johnny’s Half Shell, or Georgetown Seafood Grill or Sea Catch. All are in Washington. If you want to hit the road, there’s the very good O’Learys in Annapolis.
Washington, D.C.: I am looking for a restaurant that offers romantic dining with dancing, candle light, violinist if possible or romantic music. Possibly having a violinist come to the table, to play and romantic dinner for two in a quiet romantic restaurant with hotel available for anniversary or engagement. Please help!
Tom Sietsema: I can’t say that I’ve encountered good food, romantic setting AND a live violinist in one place around here. Chatters?
Arlington, Va.: Tom
I have just returned from New York City for New Year's Eve.
Gnocci, Pizza by the slice, Cannoli, Bagels, Lox, etc. etc. etc. (all were carry out except gnocci)
Why oh why can't we be blessed with all these great things here in the Nation's Capital?
Tom Sietsema: We DO have gnocchi on par with NYC's best Italian restaurants, but I agree with you regarding bagels and cannoli. But let's look at the glass half-full: DC has better crab cakes!
Boston, Mass.: What ever happened to the D.C. restaurant called Marakesh, they seemed to be doing quite well, have they moved or reopened under a new name?
Tom Sietsema: Amazingly, Marrakesh remains open on New York Avenue. My last meal there was a colossal disappointment: dreadful bread, worse lamb, tired vegetables, etc. If you go, be warned: the Moroccan restaurant doesn’t take credit cards.
Washington, D.C.: Where can I enjoy good Turkish cuisine?
Tom Sietsema: I’m a fan of both Temel in Fairfax and Meze in Adams Morgan.
The first features a handsome dining room and terrific doner kebab (grilled lamb, shaved from a spit); the latter is more of a hipster hangout, specializing in appetizer-size plates of Turkish fare, including very good fried mussels, lentil kofta, stuffed grape leaves, and beef-filled dumplings draped in yogurt (manti).
Washington, D.C.: I read "Kitchen Confidential" over the holidays, and now I'm tempted to check out Les Halles, the D.C. branch of the restaurant where the author works. Phyllis's online review is lukewarm, though. What's your opinion?
Tom Sietsema: I'm voting with Phyllis.
Vienna, Va.: As frequent theater goers we are always looking for restaurants near Arena, Studio, Shakespeare, Kennedy Center etc. Anything new and interesting come to mind? How about a Post column on this theme?
Tom Sietsema: Stay tuned. I’ll be reviewing an interesting and moderately-priced restaurant near the Studio Theater Jan. 20.
Rockville, Md.: What is the difference between truly great and just plain good service?
It sounds like a joke in search of a punchline, but it's not. I'm just curious as to what someone who dines out for the majority of their meals looks for in terms of service. I think I have a general idea of what good service is, but what details, to you, elevates that good service to something that is... beyond?
From my perspective, only an occasional restaurant-goer (once or twice a month), I'm a big fan of confidence in a server: someone who talks about the menu as if they've been eating the food their whole lives, rather than just having had it told to them in the kitchen by the chef a few hours earlier. I loathe the all too typical hem and haw routine I get from many servers. Thanks, Tom!
Tom Sietsema: You raise a good question -- one that deserves more reflection than I can offer in a fast-paced online discussion.
That said, one of the hallmarks of truly distinguished service for me is the restaurant’s anticipating a guest’s wants and needs even before being asked. Another is the ability of the staff to “read” a table, to gauge how involved guests want to be and how best to interact. A third factor is great hospitality, a sense of being welcomed and pampered and looked after; a diner can encounter expertly poured wine and a well-versed waiter, for instance, but those are the more technical aspects of good service and do not necessarily translate into a memorable meal.
Some restaurants go to great lengths to extend great service. I remember being routinely impressed with my perfectly-paced meals at Daniel, the four-star French restaurant in New York, and later finding out that the chef installed tiny video cameras throughout the dining room to ensure such precision.
Washington, D.C.: I'm hungry, and I'm downtown (12th and Penn). Suggestions?
Tom Sietsema: You don’t specify price or cuisine. If you’re on an expense account, try Tosca (Italian) on F St. between 11-12th streets or Butterfield 9 (modern American) on 14th at F St. Otherwise, you might check out Teaism (Asian) at H St. and Conn. Ave. or the endearing El Chalan (Peruvian) on I St.
Washington, D.C.: To my fellow 20008'er in search of a good ribolitta. Bread Line -- Tuesday lunch only. (They add a little bit of pesto on top.) Unfortunately, they refuse to make it during the summer, claiming that it's a cold weather food. But it's so good, I would eat it in August. It's also vegetarian. Looking for another place to get it in the neighborhood, or at least a good vegetarian recipe since I don't eat pork.
Tom Sietsema: Thanks for the lead. This weather is perfect for eating ribolitta. Just six more days to go ...
Alexandria, Va.: My girlfriend and I ate an early meal (5:30) at Equinox on New Year's Eve. My girlfriend went to the restroom and encountered a pile of clothing, topped with underwear, in the (only) stall. The women who owned the clothes apologized, and it turned out to be our waiter. Kinda awkward. The food was good though.
Tom Sietsema: Uh, not sure how to address THAT situation ...
Re: Rude waiter: Basically, I had previously ordered my meal with some items on the side and had reiterated it to make sure he heard me (I wasn't being rude -- it was just loud in the restaurant). He apparently had remembered this so that when I asked for a specific wine, he mentioned my decisiveness and commented on where else he thought I must be the one who "took charge" (although not in those words -- this is a G-rated chat). Just to add, after he apologized (if you could call it that), I asked "Would you appreciate someone making those comments to your wife/GF?" He replied that he talked to her like that all the time. Poor wife.
Tom Sietsema: Yikes. Poor wife/girl friend indeed!
Springfield, Va.: Any opinions on the chef's table at Tosca?
Tom Sietsema: I've never tried it out myself. But I'd be happy to eat Cesare Lanfranconi's superb food just about anywhere.
Another female/feminist diner: For the person who asked whether the female wine drinker gets mad when her husband is presented with the bill: I certainly do. If the waiter wants to act like it's 1944, I figure he should be tipped accordingly.
Tom Sietsema: Right on!
Washington, D.C.: Six more days to go for what?
Tom Sietsema: Ribollita, served only on Tuesday, at Bread Line.
(Ya gotta be quick in this forum!)
Fairfax, Va.: Hi Tom!
I'm wondering if you've heard anything about a new restaurant called "Seven" or "7" that's supposed to be opening in the Tysons area early this month. My boyfriend is visiting from North Carolina next week, and we'd hoped it would be open by the time he gets here. Also, what is your feeling about visiting restaurants so close to their opening -- do you find that it's worth waiting a few weeks before trying a place?
Tom Sietsema: I wrote about the forthcoming Restaurant Seven in today's Food section, fyi.
As for trying out new places early on, if I were a civilian, I'd definitely wait a month or two for the restaurant to ramp up.
Re: Rude waiter: What restaurant is THIS? C'mon, dish. Here I thought having the waiter automatically hand the wine list to my boyfriend was bad!
That statement was horrible. But regardless, if the waiter discovers he's inadvertently offended, his job is to apologize immediately and sincerely -- not argue his point or put the customer down further because he thinks he's got a point.
Tom Sietsema: I just returned from a few sunny days in San Juan, where I ordered a gin & tonic at a snooty beachside hotel. "Who drinks THOSE anymore?" my waiter asked me.
Rude service can occur anywhere.
Washington, D.C.: Tom, can you think of anywhere good (not too pricey) near Mazza Gallerie to eat before a movie? Cheesecake Factory and Maggiano's are both borderline decent and always packed. Other thoughts?
Tom Sietsema: Maybe Persimmon in Chevy Chase?
wiredog: Ummm. If the waiters clothes were piled up in the restroom at Equinox, where was the waiter? Is there an added attraction at Equinox we need to know about?
Tom Sietsema: You chatters crack me up sometimes ...
I presume the waitress had her uniform on, not her street clothes, Wiredog.
South Riding, Va.: I am a relative newcomer to the DC metro area, and I am looking for a taste of the Middle East that fuses Lebanese, Palestinian, Jordanian, and Israeli styles and menus. I grew up in the region munching falafel from a Tel-Aviv roadside stand for lunch, shwarma from a roadside stand in Nazareth for dinner, and multi-course meals in homes and restaurants throughout the West Bank and East Jerusalem. What restaurant(s) can you recommend that would re-ignite those tastebuds?
Tom Sietsema: Lucky you! You might start your adventure here with a meal at Layalina in Arlington.
Washington, D.C.: Just moved in a stone's throw from your offices on 15th St., Tom. What places in the neighborhood might you recommend to a neighborhood newbie?
Tom Sietsema: I think Tom Power is doing some impressive cooking at Corduroy in the Four Points Hotel at 12th and K.
Of men and wine: My boyfriend is definitely the wine expert between us, but you're right, I don't think the waiters hand him the list because they know that.
Here's one better: In Europe, we dined at a place where my boyfriend's menu had prices, but mine didn't... the better to shield the little lady from harsh economic reality. And I have to laugh every time they place the bill squarely before him. And then I reduce the tip accordingly.
Tom Sietsema: Waiters, are you listening?
It's great to be back in the saddle and chatting again. But the lunch bell just rang. Let's rendezvous here again next week, everyone.
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